Three Conch Pearls, Three Lotus Leaves
A Custom Conch Pearl Brooch
This commission began with a conch pearl our client had collected many years ago. It was originally set in a pendant, and she came to us hoping to give the pearl a new life in a completely new design.
While visiting the gem show, I helped her search for two additional conch pearls to accompany her original one. We eventually found two beautiful pearls, weighing 2.12 carats and 1.07 carats, each with its own shape, color, and character.
With three conch pearls together, we began thinking about what they could become.
Inspired by the Lotus Leaf
Our client had always loved one of our earlier lotus leaf designs, so we began exploring the idea of creating three individual lotus leaves, with one conch pearl resting within each leaf.
I have always loved the organic shape of lotus leaves—the irregular edges, flowing veins, and the way each leaf naturally curves and moves in a slightly different direction.
The soft pink color of the conch pearls also felt especially at home with the lotus theme. Rather than simply placing three pearls into one setting, we wanted each pearl to feel as though it belonged naturally within its own leaf.
Finding the Right Balance
The first sketches established the overall idea, but much of the design developed through the CAD process.
We repeatedly adjusted the shape and curvature of each leaf, as well as their size, height, and front-to-back relationship. With three large organic forms coming together, even a small change to one leaf affected the balance of the entire brooch.
We also 3D printed the design in several sizes and sent the models to our client so she could see the actual scale and proportions before we moved forward.
This part of the process was especially important. A piece can look beautiful on a screen, but a brooch of this size needs to feel right when it is actually worn.
From Three Leaves to One Brooch
Once the proportions were approved, we began making the individual lotus leaves.
We chose 18k white gold and natural diamonds for the leaves, with 18k rose gold settings beneath the conch pearls. The subtle warmth of the rose gold complements the pink of the pearls, while the white gold and diamonds keep the leaves feeling light and airy.
As each leaf took shape, we carefully considered how the three elements would overlap and connect. Their placement was not only about creating a natural sense of depth and movement, but also about making sure the larger brooch would be structurally secure.
The curves, contact points, and front-to-back relationship of each leaf were carefully adjusted so that the three individual forms could come together naturally as one piece.
The Finished Brooch
The finished brooch brings together three conch pearls, three sculptural lotus leaves, 18k white and rose gold, and natural diamonds.
Because of its scale and three-dimensional construction, we also chose a double-pin system on the back to give the brooch better balance and stability when worn.
One of my favorite things about the finished piece is that the three leaves do not sit flat. They overlap and rise at slightly different angles, giving the brooch a sense of movement while keeping the open, delicate quality of the original lotus leaf design.
And at the center of the story is still the pearl our client had treasured for many years—now joined by two new conch pearls and transformed into something completely different.
Watch the Brooch Come to Life
Take a closer look at the design and making process, from the original conch pearls and lotus leaf concept to the finished brooch.